Car Katespade Outlets

Car Battery Trickle Charger

You want to store your car, or RV, but you know that when you go to start your vehicle after it’s been sitting for a few weeks or months, that your battery will be dead.

The car battery trickle charger is specifically designed for the maintenance of 12 Volt batteries that are used periodically or kept in storage for extended periods.

The normal self-discharge of a battery is prevented when using a car battery trickle charger. In addition, the life of rechargeable 12 volt batteries is extended by providing a minimum current, regulated output.

Low quality chargers will produce a strong, rapid charge that often will decay electrodes and boil out liquids. We strongly recommend purchasing a charger that; once your battery has been fully charged, it will automatically shut-off and then resume charging as your battery level drops. Also, check to make sure the charger you buy is specifically designed for longterm use. You want to be able to safely leave it connected to your battery for days, weeks, months, even years!

More important tips for vehicle storage:

Gas up

Air carries moisture with it and that will result in condensation in the tank. To reduce this as much as possible make sure the tank is as full as it can be. This will reduce the condensation and considerably lessen the amount of water in the gas and the injection system. Get a gasoline stabilizer such as Stabil and put this in before filling the tank. You will need to run the engine for a while to ensure that the stabilized gas has penetrated the entire injection system.

Change the oil filter and the oil

The contaminants in old oil will corrode the insides of your engine so it’s important to put fresh oil and a new filter in the car.

Over-inflate Tires

Inflate automobile tire to approximately 40 or 45 psi. Modern radial tires aren’t known to have problems with flat spotting from storage. Still, some people suggest that you roll the car a little every 2 weeks or so. It is strongly recommended that you don’t jack the vehicle up and rotate the tires because when you lower the car the suspension will be loaded up. Try and check the pressure of the tires every few weeks or so and watch for slow leaks.

Some say that the suspension will sag by putting the car up on jacks. Letting it sit on the ground for the few months shouldn’t lead to any problems.

Clean the vehicles interior

When it comes time to take your vehicle out of storage you won’t clean it. You may not want to clean it before you put it in storage but when you take it out you simply won’t do it. So, take some time and get everything really clean. Clean the carpets. Clean the glass, inside and out. Clean behind the pedal cluster. Clean and condition the leather. You’ll be surprised at the dirt you’ll find. Clean all the nooks and crannies. Also, don’t forget to also clean the trunk, etc. There is a full season of dirt and junk in the vehicle that you’re not going to want to carry into the next season. Moth balls and a bag or two of the silica gel inside the car (which absorbs any moisture in the air) are excellent preventative measures.

Wash the vehicle

Dust and dirt are corrosive to any paint job so to ensure a longer life it’s important when storing to not leave those elements on the vehicle, but take care not to put it away wet. This can be challenging if you want to use the vehicle right up to wet or snow season. You should never put your car away wet because rust will form everywhere the water collects. You’ll want to try anticipating the weather and cleaning the car and driving it a little to dry it out before storage. Then it will be necessary to get the dust off before storing it with a wipe down with wet/damp towels followed drying it with towels. Another option is one of the “quick detailer sprays” available at many auto parts stores.

Wax car

This is recommended but it may be difficult to get in a good waxing of the car depending on the temperature when you are preparing to store it. A good quality of wax will be too difficult to apply in low temperatures.

Condition the rubber parts

Many of the brand name products for treating rubber put on greasy coatings of silicon (Silicon isn’t good for paint) or tend to build up over time and actually make the trim look worse. Use a good rubber conditioner to preserve all the trim.

Clean the wheels

Brake dust is highly corrosive and it’s not good to have it sitting on your wheels for weeks or months at a time. To do the most thorough job remove the wheels from the car, clean them on the outside and inside.

Cover Openings

Sealing up the exhaust tips will help to prevent rust inside the exhaust system. Close the heater vents and any other openings. Every 2 weeks or so, it’s probably a good idea to make a periodic inspection. Check if any leaks developed or if any mice are nesting.

Engine Storage

Spray WD 40 into cylinders
Take out spark plugs
Spray WD 40 into air intakes
Turn over the engine by hand with wrench a couple of times
Every three months repeat this (except the spark plugs which will no longer be in the engine)
To change the wheel bearing position, every three months turn wheels, or move car into different location
And for manual transmissions shift into one gear and move gear box internal around
Every six months drive the vehicle.

Starting the vehicle

There are differing views on whether starting a vehicle periodically while it is in storage is a good idea. Starting the engine puts considerable thermal stress on parts which are often in cold temperatures. The majority of engine wear occurs in the first few minutes when a car has been started because the oil is still in the oil pan and not lubricating the engine. In cold weather the engine may not get hot enough to burn off the moisture, acids, etc. the car is creating while running. This contaminates the clean oil. If you are going to store your car for a really long time then it needs to be run periodically to keep it operable.

Remote Control Car Setup Tips

Setting up a remote control car is as much a science as it is an art, the physics behind rc cars is exactly the same as the physics that governs real cars, if you know how setup changes in a race car work, you already know how to setup a remote control car.

The problem that most people have with setting up RC cars is that when you make a change in one area it always has a knock-on effect on the rest of your settings, setups are very much a balancing act

To start with I’ll concentrate on the basics of handling, over steer and under steer. The physics behind this is pretty simple, if you turn into a corner the center of gravity will move in what ever direction you were initially travelling. Your tires via friction push back with (hopefully) an equal amount of force. When your wheels lose traction and start to slide the energy that was being turned into heat in your tires gets released as inertial energy in the original direction of travel. With cars, both back and front don’t break traction equally, this creates either under steer or over steer, which is how we describe the experience the driver has under these conditions.

Under steer

Under steer is when the front of the car loses traction while the rear of the car still has grip on the tar, the effect is that the nose of the car drifts away from the direction you are turning, turning harder makes it worse, the only thing you can really do is back off the throttle and bleed off speed.

Over Steer

Over steer is the opposite of under steer, and in most cases it’s best to have a little of this. The front of the car keeps traction while the rear lets go. One of the key benefits is that you can typically corner much faster in a car that has some over steer

Over steer / Under steer Tuning tips

There are a lot of ways to tune the handling or your radio controlled car, the easiest is to adjust the front and rear shocks. While there are a lot of options with springs, different oils and all sorts we are just going to concentrate on the basics, most decent shocks have adjustments, either with spacers or bolts that let you adjust how hard or soft the shocks are.

As far as maximum and minimum stiffness goes, make sure that the bottom of your car doesn’t scrape the ground, and on the other end make sure it doesn’t bounce and leave the asphalt, apart from that you need to find the setup that matches your driving style, most people get winning setups off the internet and try to learn to drive them, mind you this is a great starting point, and most championship winners post their setup sheets

Shock Stiffness guide

Stiffen in front = increasing under steer or reducing over steer
Stiffen in rear = increasing over steer or reducing under steer

You may be wondering why one setting makes two changes, this is because it’s all about balance, you could for example setup your rc car by only every changing the rear stiffness, but you would find that when you got the perfect amount of over steer under braking the car would then be uncontrollable during the exit of the corner. It’s all about balance,

Another thing to keep in mind is that when you change the shocks you also change the roll of the car, this the the chassis of the car moving with the inertia, in effect pushing the front tires into the road during breaking and the rear during acceleration. If your shocks are too soft then the transfer might dig your front wheels in and lift the rear enough to make you car spin out, or lose steering under throttle, you have to find the right balance

More to come…